Walled In, Part II: As Kotor Waits

Walled In, Part II: As Kotor Waits

Two days, two walled cities. Certainly a first for this North American. Ninety minutes and a customs border away I found myself in a country that, in modern times, has…

Walled In, Part I: The Search For Grit

Walled In, Part I: The Search For Grit

I needed gelato. Some would say that nobody medically¬†needs gelato but I didn’t run into any of those doubters in the steam bath Dubrovnik was immersed in around mid-June. Wearing…

Bridges and Tunnels

Bridges and Tunnels

The infrastructure situation in the Balkans, in stark contrast to the rest of Europe, is pretty dismal. You can count the number of trains on one finger. There are flights…

Exhibitions

Exhibitions

It’s kind of an odd feeling to be the only American in a room where a retrospective of anti-American artwork was being showcased. The locally known Sarajevo graphic artist seems…

Grass In The Afternoon

Grass In The Afternoon

Faintly green, the glass of rakia in my hand was hitting several spots at once. But so was Sarajevo. I fell for a cosmopolitanism that I didn’t feel in Belgrade…

In A Pork-less Country

In A Pork-less Country

“You cannot get pork in Novi Pazar. It is impossible!” Lady, if you’re going to be adamant about something, fine. But, please, don’t take it out on the pork. As…